Day Six (May 3, 2024)From Arzúa to O Pedrouzo20 kilometres — wind and driving rain
© Internet
© Richard HuangToday was our sixth day of walking—and another full day of rain. Although my hiking shoes had kept the weather out remarkably well through days of wind and rain, the first thing I did on reaching the hotel each evening was still to dry my damp shoes and socks with a hair dryer, readying them for the next day.
© Richard HuangToday’s scenery resembled that of the previous few days: once again, we passed through wooded hills and villages. But the unrelenting downpours had turned the forest paths into a quagmire of puddles and running water. Where conditions were worst, we had to leave the usual trail and pick our way over wild grass and low shrubs, making a temporary path of our own.
© Richard HuangAfter several days of excitement, uncertainty, frustration, and discouragement, my body was gradually becoming numb and stiff. Even the pain in my feet no longer seemed to matter. Inside, however, I had grown much calmer.
© Richard HuangToday we hurried through the rain, exhausted in both body and mind, and barely noticed the scenery along the way. One sight worth mentioning was a “Wall of Wisdom,” covered in red and yellow cards bearing thought-provoking questions. It might have been interesting to stop and read them properly. But after all I have experienced over the years, I tend to steer clear of inspirational platitudes, so I gave them a quick glance and continued on my way.
The Town of O Pedrouzo
© Richard HuangO Pedrouzo is a warm and welcoming little town—small but charming, with a short main street. As the final stop for many pilgrims before completing their journey, it has no shortage of restaurants. We found one with good reviews and treated ourselves to a satisfying meal, making sure we would be in the best possible shape for tomorrow’s final stretch of the Camino.
Tomorrow we will reach our destination, Santiago. This seems a good moment to take stock of what the past few days have given me.
The First Gift: Nature
© Richard HuangEach morning, we hurried through the lush green countryside, treading through thin mist or listening to the rain. Had it not been overcast day after day, the red sun rising and slowly sinking would have kept us company as well. In its many different ways, nature showed us how beautiful and precious every moment of life can be.
© Richard HuangAs we walked from village to village, we often saw cats and dogs roaming freely beside little roadside shops, quietly watching strangers pass. Their clear, endearing eyes made it hard not to reach out and stroke them. In the pastures, horses, cattle, and sheep grazed leisurely on tender grass, while all kinds of poultry ran and played in their enclosures. The eggs we ate and the milk we drank each day came fresh from these animals—a freshness close enough to touch.
© Richard HuangThat freshness was also present in the countryside’s rich variety of smells: the wheat and butter from roadside bakeries, the ion-rich air of the woods after rain, and the mingled scents of flowers and crops, all alive with vitality. The pastures carried the earthy smell of livestock. Out in the fields, a distant whiff of cow manure told us that a village was not far away. Curiously, such smells were not unpleasant here; instead, they evoked a return to something natural and unadorned. The organic food for which city dwellers pay a premium seemed readily available everywhere.
The birds in the woods left no scent behind, but they filled the air with wonderful sounds. Every morning, birdsong, the cock-a-doodle-doo of roosters, bells jingling around the necks of cattle and sheep, dogs barking in the villages, streams murmuring, rain dripping from rooftops, and wind rustling through fields of grain came together to create the distinctive peace and vitality of the countryside—a harmonious symphony performed by nature itself. This is nature’s gift. By drawing close to it and embracing it, we learn to enjoy the present and appreciate every unbidden moment.
The Second Gift: Where History and Culture Meet
© Richard HuangGalicia is known for its stone houses and low boundary walls, which give the region a character distinctly different from the rest of Spain. This is because Galicians have Celtic ancestry and have been deeply influenced by Celtic culture.
© Richard HuangThe Celts were an ancient tribal people once spread widely across Europe. As the Roman Empire conquered their lands, they were gradually displaced and suppressed, and most eventually found refuge in the British Isles. Later invasions by Germanic peoples brought them close to extinction. Today, their descendants remain in only a handful of regions, including Galicia.
© Richard HuangThe Celts revered nature, believing that all things in heaven and on earth possessed a spirit, and they believed in supernatural beings and magic. In Galicia, where this influence endures, witch-themed figures and displays can still be seen as expressions of that cultural tradition.
© Richard HuangHórreos, traditional granaries, are ubiquitous in Galicia. Originally used to store crops, they are generally raised above the ground to keep out damp and rodents. Although they have largely lost their practical purpose, their historical value is now protected: they may be moved within a property but cannot be damaged or demolished. Along the Camino, I photographed hórreos in all shapes and sizes. Those photographs make particularly fitting illustrations for a chapter about the journey’s harvest.
Every small town, church, and hórreo along the way tells part of Galicia’s history and culture. These cultural landmarks taught me about local customs and ways of life while also revealing the depth of the region’s past. Interwoven with my experience of the present, these layers of culture broadened my horizons and deepened my understanding of civilization.
The Third Gift: Human Connection
© Richard HuangAlong the way, we met fellow travellers from all over the world. Despite our different cultures and languages, we wished one another well, offered encouragement and support, and became friends for a little while, each inspiring the others. Whether walking together, sheltering from the rain beneath an eave, or sharing a table in a restaurant, we were often asked, “Why are you walking the Camino?” We asked the same question in return, exchanging our own distinctive experiences and stories.
© Richard HuangOne especially memorable story came from a retired police officer from Singapore. Once a gifted athlete, she had damaged her knees through excessive exercise, and her doctor warned her never to run again. So she turned to hiking as a way to challenge herself. She walked more slowly than most, taking each day as it came; whenever she could go no farther, she simply found a refuge and stayed the night.
© Richard HuangWe met an older Japanese man carrying a DSLR camera, his dashing bandana suggesting that he had a few stories to tell. But he was travelling with a large group, so we never had the chance to talk for long. In the same café, we also met an elderly Irish couple. Their children were scattered around the world and usually very busy, but the family chose somewhere to reunite each year. This year, they had agreed on Santiago. The children would travel straight to the destination, while the couple had time to spare. Because of their age, they toured the first 800 kilometres by vehicle, then began walking for the final 100, determined to complete the pilgrimage on foot. They were eagerly awaiting the moment when the family would be reunited at the finish.
© Richard HuangThis French father and daughter, whom I photographed in a mirror, caught my attention early on. The father had cool tattoos and was often looking down at his phone; the daughter wore large headphones and seemed immersed in her own musical world. At first, I did not know how they were related. They spoke little and appeared to inhabit two different worlds. We often crossed paths, and once we became acquainted, I learned that the father had long wanted to walk the Camino. His daughter had come along to help fulfil that wish, deliberately arranging for them to arrive on his birthday as her gift to him. What looked like a generation gap could, it turned out, be bridged by love. It was a tender and beautiful story.
On this singular road, travellers from every part of the world were heading towards the same destination, each for a different reason and carrying a different story. In our brief encounters along the way, every greeting and every shared confidence became a meeting of minds and hearts. They showed me how much we have in common—and how much kindness there is in the world.
The Fourth Gift: Looking Within
© Richard HuangAlthough the boss at home—my wife—was with me on this trip, she is younger and stronger and often left me far behind. The long hours of walking gave me ample time alone, forcing me to confront my inner self. The repetition of each step seemed to tap against the soul. Thoughts ignored in everyday life began to surface in the stillness. Wanting less, returning to nature, simplifying life, rediscovering what is genuine, and seeking the spiritual became new sources of direction and meaning for me. The act of walking was, in truth, a journey of self-discovery and renewal.
© Richard HuangThe Fifth Gift: The Power of Faith
© Richard HuangOn this pilgrimage, we were not exactly devout worshippers; we were more like travellers carrying questions. Yet we saw faith everywhere—from the devotional objects, crosses, and churches along the way to the unending stream of pilgrims. Faith was like a beacon within, guiding pilgrims from all seven continents through hardship and urging them steadfastly onwards. I began to understand that it is more than religious belief: it is an inner certainty and aspiration, a commitment to seeking meaning in life.
© Richard HuangReflections for the Day
A long pilgrimage is not merely a road travelled on foot, but a discipline understood through the heart. On this ancient route, we gained experiences more precious than we had imagined and learned more deeply how to understand others, reflect on ourselves, explore history, appreciate culture, and remain steadfast in faith. The most important lesson of all was to return to nature and cherish the present.
© Richard Huang