Day Three (April 30, 2024)From Portomarín to Palas de Rei
26 kilometres—wind and driving rain
© Richard HuangToday we encountered every uncertainty of the journey at once, from the weather to our own bodies. The forecast called for rain every day from now on: heaven had granted us a pilgrimage truly worthy of the name “Through Wind and Rain.” I had overindulged the night before and drunk an entire bottle of red wine. This morning I woke with my stomach churning, my face pale, a cold sweat on my brow, and no strength in my legs. Walking 26 kilometres through wind and rain was clearly out of the question.
© Richard HuangHad we not already booked all our hotels along the way, we could have stayed another day and resumed walking after a proper rest. As things stood, the only option seemed to be giving up today’s hike and taking a taxi to the next stop. It is funny to think that a stretch requiring four to eight hours on foot takes little more than twenty minutes by car. Taxi contact details can be seen everywhere along the Camino. Several times, we had watched walkers fall ill or suffer an injury en route and call for one.
© Richard HuangBut when it was my own decision to make, I still struggled. Even if I qualified for the official certificate, it would somehow feel less genuine. Six months of preparation would have been for nothing. After thinking it through, I realized that failing the challenge would itself be a valuable experience—another part of the Camino. In the end, I decided to lay down that burden and accept a journey tinged with regret.
© Richard HuangI immediately contacted both hotels and arranged a late checkout at one and an early check-in at the other. The inner conflict subsided, my mind grew calm, and I settled down to rest.
© Richard HuangTwo hours later, I woke from a nap feeling reasonably refreshed. My confidence returned, and I decided to continue as planned.
© Richard HuangToday’s stage was the longest of our six-day walk. It also included several extended climbs, with long gaps between rest stops. Weakened as I was, walking such a distance through wind and rain made this an arduous day.
© Richard Huang
© Richard HuangCompared with the days that followed, the weather was actually quite kind, alternating between showers and sunshine. When the sky cleared, we took the chance to enjoy the scenery around us; when dark clouds gathered, we hurried on.
© Richard HuangLilies, calla lilies, and roses were the flowers we saw most often along the way. They brought splashes of colour to the arduous journey, offering a little pleasure and relief to tired bodies and minds.
© Richard Huang
© Richard HuangBecause we had set out late and still had a long way to go, I worried that we would not reach our destination before dark. I quickened my pace and trudged on with my head down—only to develop blisters, an often unavoidable hazard of long-distance walking, but the one thing no hiker wants.
The Town of Palas de Rei
© Richard HuangAt last, we reached Palas de Rei before nightfall.
© Richard HuangIt struck me as a quiet and lovely town.
© Richard HuangIt was already late, however, and there was no time to explore, so the town left no particularly distinct impression on me.
Luggage Transfer
We managed to complete today’s walk largely because we had made the prompt decision to send both backpacks ahead, lightening our load. The Camino’s luggage-transfer system is simple and efficient.
© Richard HuangBefore eight each morning, you attach an envelope to the backpack you want transferred and leave it in the hotel’s designated collection area. Write the address of your next accommodation along with your name and telephone number on the envelope, put the four-euro fee inside, and the transfer company will collect it on schedule.
© Richard HuangBy the time we walked into our next hotel, our backpacks would already be there, waiting quietly for us. Thoughtful operators even attached the following day’s envelope to each bag. At first, I assumed all the envelopes were the same and planned to take a stack for the whole journey. Only later did I discover that different people handled each stage, so although the envelopes looked alike, the contact names and telephone numbers varied from one section to another. Attaching the next envelope not only secured the operator another day’s business; it also saved the customer some trouble.
Several transfer companies serve the Camino, and their envelopes come in all sorts of designs. At the beginning, we asked our hotel for the envelope of a company it recommended, then stayed with that same company for the rest of the journey.
Packing List
Convenient as luggage transfer may be, when packing for the Camino you still need to let go of whatever you can and keep everything simple. For reference, this was our packing list:
— Documents —Passport; credit cards; cash— Photography Gear —Phone/phone lanyard; camera/mount (in hindsight, the camera was unnecessary—the phone worked perfectly well); GoPro/mount— Power and Charging —Power bank; charging cables and chargers for phones and cameras; European plug adaptor; headlamp (worth bringing if you need to rise in the dark to secure a bed—we brought ours but never used it)— Medication and First Aid —
Stomach medicine; painkillers; cold medicine; heart-relief pills; medicated balm; vitamin C; pain-relief patches; adhesive bandages; blister plasters— Hiking Gear —Hiking backpack with rain cover; small day bag or chest pack for easy access to essentials; trekking poles (optional, but strongly recommended); hiking boots—the more waterproof, the better; sandals; lightweight down jacket; windproof shell
Rain jacket and rain trousers that can withstand prolonged rain; quick-drying sweat towel; quick-drying bath towel; spare bags; cord and several clothes pegs for drying clothes; gloves; neck gaiter; sunglasses; waterproof sun hat
Eye mask; earplugs
— Clothing —Two sets of underwear; two quick-drying short-sleeved shirts; two quick-drying long-sleeved shirts; one long-sleeved wool sweater; two pairs of quick-drying trousers; shorts; leggings; two pairs of toe socks to prevent blisters; two pairs of wool socks; two pairs of regular socks— Personal Care —Sunscreen; skincare products; toothbrush; basic razor
What It Means to Let Go
© Richard HuangAlong the Camino, milestones and crosses are often covered with stones left by pilgrims.
© Richard HuangLook closely and, among the stones, you will also find scallop shells, bracelets, photographs of loved ones, ribbons, religious objects, journals, notes, personal belongings, and Camino souvenirs. Every object holds a story.
© Richard HuangThrough the ritual of leaving an object behind, pilgrims release the worries and inner knots they carry. At the moment they let it go, they seem to cast off some of life’s burdens as well and find a measure of spiritual freedom. Every object also marks an inward journey.
© Richard HuangWhenever I come upon such a scene, I feel a quiet strength.
© Richard HuangA stone placed on a milestone becomes a marker in time and space; placed on a cross, it becomes a spiritual point of support.
Reflections on the Day
The Camino begins with burdens on our shoulders: the physical weight of our packs and the invisible baggage of the mind. As time passes and the miles accumulate, those burdens feel heavier and heavier.
I overcame today’s unexpected setback not only because I let go of my backpack, but also because I released my insistence that I “had to finish.” That allowed me to face the difficulty with a lighter heart.
Truly learning to let go is not easy. It calls for wisdom, courage, and a profound understanding of life.
Life, like the Camino, is full of uncertainties and challenges. Only by relinquishing the attachments we do not need can we truly enjoy the scenery along the way and experience the beauty of being alive.