Day 5 (May 2, 2024)From Melide to Arzúa14 kilometres — wind and rain
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© Richard HuangThe weather has been unkind throughout this journey, with the rain lasting longer each day. Today, it rained almost without pause. The day before yesterday, I had set out late because I was ill, then hurried to make up time and ended up with blisters. That changed the way I walked yesterday, and when I got up this morning, my foot was swollen and painful. Finishing today’s route would not be easy. I would have to grit my teeth and keep going.
© Richard HuangAlong the way, people greet one another with “Buen Camino,” a wish for a safe journey. Sometimes cyclists come up from behind and, instead of ringing a bell, call out “Buen Camino!” The walkers know to move aside and return the greeting as they do. Far more people said it to me today than on previous days. Perhaps they saw me limping and wanted to offer their good wishes—and a little encouragement.
© Richard HuangA long journey, a weary body, and days of unrelenting rain inevitably make you wonder why you came at all. You begin to ask whether it is time to stop: let go, or carry on?
© Richard HuangOnce, I saw an elderly man with a disability walking the Camino alone, limping heavily as he went. If he could make it, I thought, then surely I could too. Through their actions and the greetings they exchange, the people on the trail create a powerful collective energy that carries everyone forward.
© Richard HuangThis stretch crosses mountains and hills, with plenty of climbing and descending on some fairly steep sections. The terrain varies: some parts are challenging, others comfortable underfoot. Fortunately, today’s distance was relatively short, so I could rest more often and take things slowly. Gritting my teeth, I made it through.
© Richard HuangYet perseverance is not only about facing hardship and adversity; it brings its own rewards. Once I had firmly decided to carry on, my mind relaxed. The pain seemed to ease, and even my steps felt lighter. The pale morning mist, birdsong in the woods, wildflowers in the fields, and unassuming rural scenery were all gifts bestowed upon those who persist.
© Richard HuangEvery view, every encounter, and every greeting spoke of what it means to persevere.
The Town of Arzúa
© Richard HuangAt long last, one step and one footprint at a time, my legs carried me all the way to today’s destination: Arzúa.
© Richard HuangArzúa lies in the heart of Galicia, about 40 kilometres from Santiago. It is an important stop for pilgrims before they reach their final destination.
© Richard HuangThe town’s best-known speciality is Arzúa-Ulloa cheese, which has a soft texture, mild taste, and distinctive flavour. It is one of Spain’s most popular cheeses. Every March, the Festa do Queixo cheese festival draws large numbers of visitors who come to taste and buy it.
© Richard HuangLife here moves at a relatively slow pace. There are few pedestrians on the streets in the evening, giving the town a sense of tranquillity.
© Richard HuangThat evening, I found a highly rated restaurant, only to be told that it served guests with reservations only. With little choice, I had a pilgrim’s menu near the hostel and turned in early. Tonight’s hostel was small, with only a few rooms, so there was no queue for the washers and dryers. I took the opportunity to wash all my clothes.
Shoes
© Richard HuangShoes are among a pilgrim’s most important pieces of equipment. The right footwear not only makes the journey more comfortable but also helps prevent blisters, foot pain, and other injuries.
© Richard HuangOn some stretches of the Camino, particularly near Santiago, pilgrims hang their old shoes from trees or leave them beside the trail as mementos of the journey they have completed. These shoes have become emblems of the pilgrims’ perseverance and resolve.
© Richard HuangSome pilgrims write their names, countries, or the dates they began their pilgrimage on their shoes, leaving a record of their journeys. Each pair bears witness to a personal experience and the challenges overcome.
© Richard HuangEvery pair of shoes tells a story of faith and perseverance.
Water Sources
© Richard HuangTo keep going on the Camino, conviction is essential—but so is an adequate supply of food and water.
© Richard HuangPublic drinking fountains are commonly found along the route near towns, villages, and churches, providing pilgrims with clean water.
© Richard HuangThese drinking points are usually clearly marked to show that the water is safe to drink. Their old-fashioned designs and weathered surfaces make it clear that many have stood here for a very long time.
© Richard HuangThe Camino is highly commercialised nowadays, with plenty of places to stop and rest. Most people rehydrate by buying coffee, juice, or bottled water at these stops.
© Richard HuangEven so, the water points scattered along the Camino continue quietly to provide walkers with what they need to carry on.
© Richard HuangMore than mere water sources, they are witnesses—to changing times and to all that has endured. They embody the deep, continuous currents of religion, history, and culture along the Camino.
Reflections on the Day
Although today’s route was not long, it was the hardest yet. Accumulated fatigue, increasing pain, fading novelty, and steadily worsening weather all stirred the temptation to give up.
To overcome that temptation, perseverance becomes one of the Camino’s defining virtues. Every monotonous, repeated step is both a test of perseverance and a testament to it. Each journey completed bears witness to its power and brings a deepening of the spirit.
More important than perseverance, however, is faith. As the old saying goes, “The road lies beneath your feet; your heart is set on the distance.” It is this longing to reach that distant place that gives the Camino’s countless pilgrims the resolve to take each firm step, day after day.
© Richard Huang