We stayed in Cusco again today, with nothing special planned. I had deliberately left this day open as a buffer in case anything earlier in the itinerary went wrong and needed to be made up. After so many days on the move, it was also a welcome chance to rest. We spent most of the day wandering around central Cusco, using the Plaza de Armas as our base and visiting nearby churches and museums.
© Richard HuangThe morning sun fell across the church dome.
© Richard HuangChurch staff were already busy preparing to open their doors to worshippers and visitors. Cusco Cathedral and the Church of the Society of Jesus both stand beside the Plaza de Armas.
© Richard HuangThe beggars were getting to work too. These days, even begging demands diligence—otherwise there is nothing to eat. The two apples belonging to this white-haired old woman stood out vividly. I guessed that tourists had given them to her. Even amid such desolation, there was a faint touch of warmth…
© Richard HuangThe bronze figure of an Indigenous Peruvian hero towered above the fountain in the middle of the square, seeming to summon everyone to get to work.
© Richard HuangThe statue of Christ on the hillside stood out sharply in the morning light.
© Richard HuangLeaving the square, we headed for the Convent of Santo Domingo, built on what was once the Inca Empire’s Temple of the Sun. The sun god held supreme importance in Inca culture, and the temple was constructed for his worship. It was once filled with golden statues, while even its walls were inlaid with gold leaf, earning it the name “Golden Courtyard.” After the Spanish invasion, the gold was stripped away and the temple demolished. According to legend, its foundations proved so difficult to dismantle that the Spanish simply built the convent on top of them. The church we see today is Spanish in style, with Spanish arcades surrounding the courtyard, while the black stone walls outside are surviving foundations of the Temple of the Sun. When an earthquake later struck Cusco, the convent was destroyed, yet the temple’s stone walls remained standing—a testament to the extraordinary skill of Inca builders. Part of the convent now houses the Qorikancha museum.
© Richard HuangThis is the cross in front of the convent. The Spanish invasion brought Western civilization, symbolized by the radiant cross, yet it also destroyed Inca civilization, like the shadow behind it. Today, the vast majority of Peruvians are Catholic, and in their eyes there is only the glory of the cross. The camera alone records both sides as they truly are.
© Richard HuangFrom the convent, we went to the Inka Museum, housed in a small two-storey building around a courtyard. The collection is not particularly extensive, and the displays are fairly simple, but it includes many textiles, ceramics, and sculptures, along with several mummies. It offers a useful introduction to the history of Inca culture.
© Richard HuangCusco also has a Museum of Pre-Columbian Art, but I came away with neither photographs nor any memory of it. Perhaps it was closed and we never got to visit. After leaving the Inka Museum, we wandered the streets, admiring old doorways and ornate, finely crafted balconies.
© Richard HuangThe square is surrounded by cafés and restaurants, each with its own character. Sitting upstairs by a window overlooking the plaza, lingering over a beer or coffee, is a wonderfully relaxed way to pass the time. There are also plenty of gift shops around the square. Local handicrafts, textiles, and alpaca products are all popular, though we have never been particularly keen on shopping while travelling.
© Richard HuangWith little else left to do, we decided to walk back to the Plaza de Armas, rest on a bench, and watch the people passing by.
© Richard HuangWhen we reached the square, we were astonished to find it bustling once again, with drums and music thundering through the air.
© Richard HuangA youth dance troupe was performing the tango in the square, and a television crew had come to interview them.
© Richard HuangThere were quite a few lovable little rascals in the troupe. Their movements were not exactly graceful, but they were so endearing that it hardly mattered.
© Richard Huang
© Richard HuangThis pair looked like the stars of the troupe—and perhaps they were a couple as well. They threw themselves into the dance, fully embodying its exuberant Spanish passion.
© Richard HuangThe children danced to the music, and the spectators responded with equal enthusiasm. The fast music and lively dancing seemed ready to set the whole square ablaze.
My photographic technique was not up to the occasion, and many of the pictures came out blurred. Fortunately, I recorded part of the performance on my phone.
© Richard HuangWhen the performance ended, we were still caught up in the excitement. We decided not to leave after all, but to sit in the square and watch the world go by.
© Richard HuangThe square is a favourite place for children to linger and play.
© Richard HuangMost of the people passing through were tourists from all over, hurrying to find their way or reach their next stop. There probably were not many like us, content simply to sit there and stare into space.
© Richard HuangNow and then, we also saw local people in traditional dress. They were the ones who most caught my eye.
© Richard Huang
© Richard HuangAt last, night began to fall. After a full day of commotion, the square was ready to grow quiet, and Peru’s hero was ready to rest…
© Richard HuangThe crowds gradually dispersed…
© Richard HuangThe ceremonial guards lowered and put away the flags that had flown above the square…
© Richard HuangThe statue of Christ on the hillside continued its silent watch over this ancient yet vibrant city.
It had been a leisurely day, spent strolling through the streets and alleys of Cusco, until the dancing sent a ripple of excitement through the square. This plaza has brought us so many surprises on this journey: first the military parade, then the Easter procession, and now this tango performance. Peru is a magical place that way: it can surprise you every day, at any moment.
Tomorrow, carrying even greater expectations with us, we fly to Lima, the capital.
Good night, Cusco.