Frontenac National Park (Parc national de Frontenac) is a 156.5-square-kilometre provincial park in southeastern Quebec, Canada. Established in 1987, it lies along the shores of Grand lac Saint-François, roughly midway between Quebec City and Sherbrooke.
© Richard HuangBesides campsites, the park has nine cabins for rent. In early October 2021, we rented one of them. It was our first time staying in this kind of cabin, so everything felt new and intriguing. According to a friend with plenty of experience, cabins in Quebec’s national parks are generally much like this one.
© Richard HuangThe cabin had a bright, comfortable living room, complete with a dining table for eight, a sofa, and rocking chairs.
© Richard HuangHuge windows brought the natural world outside into the room. Sitting in a rocking chair with a fragrant cup of tea, gazing out at the scenery, was a wonderful way to unwind and empty the mind—to forget, for a little while, the noise of the city and the troubles of everyday life.
© Richard HuangThe cabin had one large bedroom, two smaller private rooms, and a loft, with space for ten people. Mattresses were provided, but bedding was not; all we needed to bring was a sleeping bag.
© Richard HuangThere were two bathrooms, both spotless. We had expected hot water to be hard to come by in the mountains, but, to our surprise, it was just the right temperature.
© Richard HuangThe kitchen was also spacious and tidy, fully equipped with a refrigerator, stove, cookware, dishes, and utensils.
© Richard HuangOutside were a firepit and a barbecue grill.
© Richard HuangMost of the cabin’s electricity came from solar panels on the roof, with a gasoline generator for emergencies. These propane tanks supplied the kitchen and heating system. Perhaps for safety reasons, there were no electrical outlets inside—only a single USB charging port. With a crowd, we had to take turns, which was fairly painful for those of us attached to our phones. Next time, remember the power bank. Then again, when we come out here to be close to nature, perhaps we should put our phones away in the first place.
© Richard HuangThere was also a wood-burning fireplace for extra heat. We did not really need it, but sitting around the fire chatting—or chopping a little firewood—was an added pleasure.
© Richard HuangThis little shed was used to store firewood.
© Richard HuangThe park provided life jackets free of charge; we simply picked up what we needed from the visitor centre at the park entrance.
© Richard HuangThe lake lay just outside the cabin, with two rowboats, two canoes, and a private dock at our disposal. We went out on the water several times a day. With the cabin set on such extensive grounds, we had the whole lake to ourselves. Mist drifted across the mirror-still surface, and it was wonderfully peaceful to float along. Woods surrounded us on every side. Every so often, we would call out just to hear the echo return louder than the original cry, lingering in the air as our delight seemed to rise with it into the sky…
Against a backdrop of autumn colour, it was as though a fairyland had descended to earth.
© Richard HuangAfter dinner, we returned to the lakeshore beneath a sky scattered with stars. The Milky Way rose from the horizon and slowly arced overhead. Now and then, a shooting star flashed past, and every time we saw one, we hurried to make a wish. Many beautiful wishes were made that night. We later learned that, far from human settlement and with little light pollution, this is an excellent place for stargazing.
© Richard HuangAt sunrise the next morning, mist covered the water and the surrounding landscape drifted in and out of view, creating a mood all its own…
© Richard Huang
© Richard Huang
© Richard HuangAfter breakfast, we decided to go hiking. There were several trails to choose from, so we asked at the visitor centre below and settled on the 11-kilometre Le Massif de Winslow Trail, which leads to the summit. From the visitor centre, it was about a twenty-minute drive to the trailhead parking lot.
© Richard HuangNear the trailhead were numerous pools and small lakes. The ground was damp, the rocks thick with moss, and mushrooms of every kind grew along the way. There were plenty of insects on this stretch and relatively little shade, so sunscreen and bug spray were essential companions.
© Richard HuangThe second section turned onto a proper forest trail. There were fewer ponds and fewer insects, and several small streams appeared before the next junction.
© Richard HuangThis stretch remained quite flat and was wide enough for an ATV.
© Richard Huang
© Richard HuangThe third section was a loop. We took it clockwise, climbing first along a winding woodland path carpeted with maple leaves. The mountain was not especially high, but reaching the summit lookout over such a short distance made this the trail’s most difficult section. Dappled sunlight flickered through the red, green, and yellow trees and spilled across the ground. It was also the most beautiful part of the hike.
© Richard HuangWe reached the summit breathless, and the view suddenly opened before us.
© Richard HuangAfter a short rest at the summit, we descended by another trail, passing a second lake along the way. A secluded beach there offered a place to have a bite to eat and take in the lovely view across the water.
Compared with other parks, Frontenac feels more unspoiled. Although its cabins are well equipped, it attracts relatively few visitors and has little of a commercial atmosphere. What it lacks in tourist conveniences, it makes up for in rustic pleasures.
© Richard HuangOn our way back to Montreal from Frontenac, we stopped by Mont-Orford National Park.
© Richard HuangThere were far more visitors here, as well as all kinds of recreational facilities.
© Richard Huang
© Richard HuangPeople say that autumn in Canada is a palette overturned in heaven, spilling its colours across the earth. I would say it is paradise itself, brought down into the mortal world.