© Richard HuangOur first night aboard was quiet and comfortable, no different from staying in a hotel. Viking’s river cruises spend a day or two at each port of call, with guides taking passengers ashore for daytime excursions. There are usually several itineraries to choose from, some complimentary and others requiring an additional fee. According to the schedule, we would remain in Budapest today, with a free coach tour of the city available to passengers. I rose at the crack of dawn and went up to the top deck to watch the sunrise. The first pale light was just appearing on the horizon, but commuters were already hurrying across the green bridge to the north, rushing off to earn their living. Yellow trams rattled back and forth at regular intervals.
© Richard HuangTraffic was already streaming across the white bridge to the south as well. In the distance, Buda Castle looked especially beautiful, its lights reflected in the water. We had yet to set foot in Buda, where the palace stands. Our original plan was to skip the group tour, explore Buda on our own, and return to the ship that evening. But after checking with the reception desk, we discovered a flaw in that plan: the ship would leave Budapest at the same time as the coaches. Once the morning city tour was over, the coach would carry us forty kilometres north to the town of Visegrád, where we would rejoin the ship. This arrangement ensured that it could reach our next stop, Vienna, the following day.
© Richard HuangThe reception desk explained that today was an exception. We could either join the tour or stay aboard; exploring independently was not an option. In the end, we had little choice but to board the coach and take a breathless tour of Budapest from our seats. Without stopping, it passed the Great Market Hall, St. Stephen’s Basilica, and the Parliament Building—all places we had already visited—then continued north along Andrássy Avenue, lined with designer shops, to Heroes’ Square. From there, we crossed a bridge into Buda.
© Richard HuangAt last, the coach stopped in the Buda Castle District and we were able to get out for a walk. The guide gave us an hour of free time. As we had not been here before, we made a quick circuit of the area.
© Richard HuangThis imposing church is Matthias Church, a magnificent blend of Gothic and Romanesque architecture with an ornately decorated interior. Dating back to the thirteenth century, it has been rebuilt and restored many times. It once served as the coronation church of Hungarian kings and as the setting for royal weddings and major religious ceremonies.
© Richard HuangThe richly decorated interior features stained-glass windows, murals, carvings, and altars, all bearing witness to remarkable artistry and centuries of religious history.
© Richard HuangOutside the church stands a statue of Matthias, one of the most celebrated kings in Hungarian history. Matthias I played a major role in fifteenth-century Hungary and is regarded as one of the country’s greatest monarchs. The statue depicts him on horseback. Raised in his right hand is a distinctively shaped cross known as the “double cross,” one of the principal elements on Hungary’s flag and coat of arms. It carries both religious and historical significance, symbolizing Hungary’s Christian tradition and national faith. On the king’s head sits a crooked crown. The tilt recalls how the crown was once seized by the King of Bohemia and later recovered, commemorating that episode while also evoking resilience and perseverance.
© Richard HuangBeside the church stands the famous Fisherman’s Bastion. Its dramatic Neo-Gothic design, with seven white turrets and stone walls, makes it look like a castle from a fairy tale.
© Richard HuangDespite its ancient appearance, Fisherman’s Bastion was actually built in the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries. It was never intended for military defence, but as a scenic, ornamental monument to the fishermen’s guild of Hungarian history—hence its name. From the bastion, one can look across the Danube to Pest and its famous landmarks, including the Parliament Building and St. Stephen’s Basilica. It offers one of the grandest panoramas in Budapest and is an ideal place to take photographs and admire the view.
© Richard HuangAcross the street stands the official residence of the Hungarian president, known as Sándor Palace. Built in the early nineteenth century in the Neoclassical style, it has a white façade and classical colonnade. In addition to serving as the president’s official residence, it hosts state functions, meetings, and ceremonies.
© Richard HuangNext to the presidential residence is Buda Castle, whose origins date back to the thirteenth century. Rebuilt and restored many times, it has served at various points in history as a palace for Hungary’s kings, a governor’s residence, and a museum. Today it houses the Hungarian National Gallery and the Budapest History Museum. Nearby stands a statue of the Virgin Mary.
© Richard HuangFrom there, we had a panoramic view over Pest—and once again saw the magnificent Parliament Building in all its beauty.
© Richard HuangAn hour was far too short to explore the Castle District properly, and we were forced to cancel our reservation at a Michelin-listed restaurant. Back on the coach, our whirlwind sightseeing resumed. We passed some Roman ruins and the like along the way. With the guide’s commentary continuing in the background, I soon fell asleep and did not wake until we reached the boarding point on the far outskirts of Budapest.
© Richard HuangBy the time we reboarded, it was lunchtime, and the ship was setting out for our next destination: Vienna, the capital of Austria. Enjoying an exquisite lunch in the dining room while watching the picturesque Danube scenery through enormous floor-to-ceiling windows was wonderfully relaxing.
© Richard HuangWe spent the entire afternoon aboard, grateful for the chance to rest and shake off the fatigue of the past few days. Our eyes, however, had no respite: the trees lining both banks alone offered more than we could take in. The Danube is home to an abundance of willows, weeping willows, poplars, and other vegetation. Together they form a rich riverside ecosystem, providing vital habitat for the region’s birds, aquatic life, and other wildlife.
© Richard HuangAlong the way, we passed sights both famous and obscure. One was Visegrád Citadel, overlooking the riverside town of Visegrád about forty kilometres from Budapest. Perched high above the Danube, it dates back to the fourteenth century and once served Hungary’s kings as both a royal palace and a stronghold guarding the Danube’s northern frontier.
© Richard HuangFrom time to time, we saw fishing boats on the river, canoes paddled by outdoor enthusiasts, cargo vessels, and sightseeing cruise ships travelling in both directions.
© Richard HuangTime flowed as swiftly as the waters of the Danube, and soon evening was upon us. In the setting sun, the houses along both banks glowed with brilliant colour and looked more beautiful than ever.
© Richard HuangWatching the sunset from a river ship is a curious experience. The boat keeps moving and the scenery on both banks keeps changing, like a painted scroll slowly unfurling.
© Richard HuangOnly from a moving ship can you watch the sun set against one backdrop after another, all in the course of a single evening. The effect is dreamlike.
© Richard HuangToday we left Budapest. Before our departure, the coach gave us one last look at this beautiful city, along with a hurried visit to the Buda Castle District. This trip left many Budapest wishes unfulfilled: watching the sunset and the city panorama from Gellért Hill, soaking in one of Hungary’s famous thermal baths, and eating our way through the dozens of distinctive, celebrated restaurants, cafés, and pastry shops—to name only a few. We had accumulated plenty of excuses to come back. In the lingering glow of sunset, the ship sailed slowly toward our next stop, Vienna.
Farewell, Budapest.
…Video…